Proposed Adirondack Climbing Management Plan

Background

Foot travel consists of a spectrum of activities. Established in the 1930s, the Sierra Club devised and promulgated a grading system to capture this continuous spectrum, beginning with ‘Class 1’ for level terrain and continuing through ‘Class 5’ for steep terrain [1]. This system continues to be widely recognized by land managers, climbing guide services, climbing guidebook authors, and the climbing public in general. Activities include hiking defined as travel on relatively level terrain (Class 1 and 2); scrambling defined as ascents of steeper trails and slides, such as those in the High Peaks (Class 3 and 4); and mountaineering (including technical climbing) defined as ascents of vertical or near vertical terrain (Class 5). 

In the Adirondack Forest Preserve, hiking, scrambling, and mountaineering have a long history and are recognized as legitimate and appropriate uses of the land. The first known hiking, scrambling, and mountaineering ascents of the High Peaks took place in the 1800s. Mount Marcy was first hiked in 1837, the Trap Dike on Mount Colden was climbed in 1850, and the South Face of Gothics was climbed in 1896. Since then, these activities have grown in popularity along with the infrastructure and natural resource protection needed to support them, including building and maintenance of trail networks, bridges, lean-tos, trail kiosks/registers, signage, and markers. For some technical climbing areas, infrastructure also includes distinct approach and descent paths, fixed anchors, and erosion control along the cliff base.

Hiking, scrambling and mountaineering, and infrastructure supporting these activities, have been managed to date by the Adirondack Park State Land Master Plan (SLMP) and individual Unit Management Plans (UMP) [2] and have been established in such a way that preserves the history of these activities in the Adirondack Forest Preserve and respects land use and conservation. While many hiking, scrambling, and mountaineering activities are covered by current management plans [3], technical climbing activities have, for the most part, not been specifically addressed by these plans. With the increasing popularity of these activities, there is a need to address this gap. Over the years, climbers have contributed to preserve the experience of climbing as a valid use of wild lands by working as volunteers, acting as stewards, and being invested users of the land. A climbing management plan would formalize this partnership. 

Purpose

The purpose of this document is to propose a plan for the management of technical climbing (herein climbing) in the Adirondack Forest Preserve based on the principle that development of infrastructure for climbing, as part of the spectrum of activities described above should be undertaken to balance safety, opportunities for public enjoyment, and protection of the natural resource.  

This Climbing Management Plan would apply to climbing areas which are defined as sections of the Adirondack Forest Preserve that have climbing routes, a history of climbing, existing resources, and infrastructure that support climbing or opportunities for climbing. Like hiking trails, climbing areas require management of 1) liability concerns, 2) trailhead infrastructure, 3) natural resource protection, 4) climbing route management including the use of fixed anchors, and 5) education. 

The management plan will preserve the resources of the Adirondack Forest Preserve, maintain the safety of the climbing community, and honor the history of climbing in the Adirondack Forest Preserve. The goals of this management plan are to:

  • Balance minimizing impact while allowing climbing as an activity to continue.
  • Preserve the experience of climbing in the Adirondack Forest Preserve for future visitors. 
  • Maintain climbing infrastructure and natural resources in the Adirondack Forest Preserve. 
  • Foster collaborative and productive dialogue with diverse user groups. 
  • Identify management methods for climbing that are consistent with management approaches for other types of recreation within the Forest Preserve.

Topics covered in Climbing Management Plan

  1. Liability Concerns
  2. Trailhead Infrastructure
  3. Natural Resource Protection
  4. Climbing Route Management & Fixed Anchors
  5. Education
  1. Liability Concerns

Visitors are free to participate in hiking, scrambling, mountaineering, and climbing activities on all Adirondack Forest Preserve lands. 

These activities are potentially dangerous activities. Responsibility rests solely with the individual participant. The rocks, cliffs, and other natural features of the terrain, as well as any fixed anchors or other manmade infrastructure are not guaranteed to meet any standards or be in any predictable condition.

Neither land managers nor the community are responsible for any actions of individual visitors.

  1. Trailhead Infrastructure

The installation of trailhead infrastructure can have a positive impact not only on the protection of the natural resource, but also in creating a positive user experience.  

This includes:

  • Safe, legal parking available for visitors.
  • Informational kiosks to provide access to educational information (Rules & Regulations, Leave No Trace, etc.) and trail registers for documenting and measuring the volume of use.
  • Pit toilets and privies at identified high use climbing areas to mitigate impacts of human waste.
  1. Natural Resource Protection

Natural resource protection will balance minimizing user impact to the natural resources with an understanding that technical climbing activities are a valid and legitimate use of the land. Practices will balance natural resource protection with safety.

Approach and Descent Paths: Many impacts (e.g. soil compaction and erosion, wildlife disturbance, noise) related to technical climbing are also associated with hiking and mountaineering activities. This section focuses on impacts related to the approach and descent paths that are specific to technical climbing. 

  • Approach Paths: Climbers often bushwhack and scramble to gain access to the steeper terrain resulting in numerous steep approach paths. Additionally, the soil at the base of climbs in high use areas can become compacted and denuded of vegetation. Approach paths to well-known and heavily used climbing areas should be identified, delineated, and may need erosion control (see below).
  • Descent Paths: Climbers often bushwhack and scramble down steep terrain to descend from climbs resulting in numerous steep descent paths. Descent paths from well-known and heavily used climbing routes should be identified, delineated, and may need erosion control (see below). Additionally, the placement of fixed anchors can reduce traffic on steep descent paths that are especially prone to erosion and mitigate their deterioration.
  • Base/Top of Cliff: As climbers access and exit climbing routes at the base and top of the cliff, these areas can be susceptible to added erosion. Erosion control measures such as hardening and terracing may be needed.

Climbers should limit impacts to vegetation and soils by using existing approach and descent paths, utilizing fixed anchors when available, and avoiding creation of new approach and descent paths where identified paths already exist.

Endangered Species: Threatened and endangered species may exist on or near climbing areas. Some popular climbing areas are prime habitat for certain species of wildlife currently listed as Threatened or Endangered Species in New York State. For example, climbers have had a successful partnership with the Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC) for the past 30 years to assist with monitoring of Peregrine Falcons. Climbers have respected closures of climbing areas during the breeding season for Peregrine Falcons and have avoided disturbing these birds if encountered outside of the closed areas. Such partnerships should continue.

  1. Climbing Route Management & Fixed Anchors

Climbing Route Management: It is understood that some impact to the natural environment is likely to occur on steep terrain at established climbing areas, as is the case on established hiking trails. Climbing routes should be considered similar to foot trails in their management using strategies that are durable, sustainable, and safe. Climbing route management should also be ethical. For example, chipping the rock, adding features onto the rock, or installing artificial holds on a climbing route is considered unethical and is prohibited.

Fixed Anchors: Fixed anchors are defined as climbing equipment (e.g., bolts, pitons, or slings) left in place to allow for the ascent or descent of technical terrain [4]. Fixed anchors are integral to the safety of climbers. They are primarily placed where the placement of removable anchors is not feasible. Also, modern standards for fixed anchors include anchors that may preserve the cliff top environment by allowing a climber to descend from the cliff face without needing to access the cliff top.

Monitoring and Compliance: Climbing areas will be monitored for erosion, soil compaction, and threatened and endangered species protection through collaboration between local land management resources and the climbing community.  Any non-emergent issues observed will be reported to local land managers with appropriate action taken to address the issue.

  1. Education

Education is a critical part of any recreational land management plan. Providing standardized educational messaging and ensuring ongoing collaboration between the DEC and the climbing community is a priority.

REFERENCES

[1] P. Bates, “Definitions for Scrambling Ratings,” Sierra Club, Sierra Peaks Section, [Online]. Available: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.sierraclub.org/sites/www.sierraclub.org/files/sce/sierra-peaks-section/files/Definitions%2520for%2520Scrambling%2520Ratings.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwi9sojD-reQAxXyv4kEHa0_GhoQFnoECBoQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2wfoA4TtDZW14abjF26N1X [Accessed: 22-Oct-2025].

[2] “Department of Environmental Conservation,” Recreation and Unit Management Plans, [Online]. Available: https://dec.ny.gov/nature/forests-trees/dec-land-stewardship/rmp-ump [Accessed: 22-Oct-2025].

[3] Adirondack Park Agency, “State of New York Adirondack Park State Land Master Plan,” Adirondack Park Agency, [Online]. Available: https://apa.ny.gov/files/laws/APSLMP.pdf [Accessed: 22-Oct-2025].

[4] Federal Register, vol. 64, no. 209, U.S. Dept. of Agriculture, Forest Service, “Negotiated Rulemaking Advisory Committee; Fixed Anchors in Wilderness,” 36 CFR Chapter II, Oct. 29, 1999. [Online]. Available: http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/FR-1999-10-29/pdf/99-28219.pdf  [Accessed: 22-Oct-2025].

APPENDIX I

Short- and Long-Term Management Objectives*

Trailhead Infrastructure

  • Short term – Identify high use climbing areas for installation of pit toilets, trailhead kiosks, and parking options.
  • Short term – Create, approve and produce a trail marker design for designated climbing access trails.
  • Short term – Continue volunteer trail work and cliff top/base improvement.
  • Short/Long term – Develop a strategy to identify erosion control measures to critical access trails and the cliff top/base.

Natural Resource protection

  • Short term – Identify current climbing areas that have threatened/endangered species, as well as sensitive or rare species.
  • Short term – Set up photo monitoring sites and locations for identified high use areas.
  • Long term – Devise a strategy to install fixed anchors that may protect and preserve cliff top ecosystems.
  • Long term – Develop a cliff top/base management strategy to create cliff top/base boundaries to encourage foot traffic to stay on durable surfaces.
  • Long term – Monitor approach and descent paths in identified high use areas to ensure erosion control is working. Monitor for revegetation success.

Climbing Route Management & Fixed Anchors

  • Short term – Develop a management policy that allows for the replacement of currently existing fixed anchors within the Adirondack Forest Preserve that is in accordance with the environmental conservation law, Title 6 New York Codes, Rules and Regulations (6NYCRR) and department administrative guidelines. Due to the moratorium language in recent Unit Management Plans, many fixed anchors throughout the Adirondack Forest Preserve are safety hazards in urgent need of updating. 
  • Long term – Develop a strategy to exempt climbing route management, including fixed anchor placement, from current conservation law and Title 6 New York Codes, Rules and Regulations.

Education

  • Short term – Develop a standard presentation of information at trailhead kiosks that incorporate land use regulations, minimum impact behavior, and best practices.
  • Long term – Develop a Climbing Steward program to perform education at high use areas on high use weekends.
  • Long term/ongoing – Continue to build relationships with the Adirondack Climbers’ Coalition to have better understanding of climber user patterns, behavior, and impact.

*Objectives should be reviewed/updated every 3 years

APPENDIX II

Adirondack Climbers’ Coalition Fixed Anchor Policy

  1. Climbing is an appropriate activity, and fixed anchors are necessary for preserving the users’ experience and responsible, safe climbing.
  2. Fixed anchors are necessary for the continued sustainable management of climbing areas.
  3. Fixed anchors are a valuable tool for resource management. Strategic placement of fixed anchors can minimize climbing related impacts that can occur to fragile soils, vegetation and wildlife. This value is lost when fixed anchors are prohibited.
  4. Fixed anchors are a valuable tool for managing climbers. Fixed anchors can greatly enhance the safety of climbers. They can also contribute to the controlling descent routes as a means of land management.
  5. Public input is vital for the proper management of fixed anchors. As a key piece of safety equipment to climbers, it is necessary that climbers have a voice in fixed anchor management.
  6. Administrative action regarding fixed anchors should only be taken after proper discussion and notice to the public. Any actions regarding fixed anchors should only occur after discussion of resource capacity, associated impacts, and the acceptable levels of use of natural resources. Alternatives to fixed anchors should be well understood and discussed prior to any changes to fixed anchor policy. Any changes to policy should be well-publicized to mitigate any negative impacts to climber safety associated with the change.
  7. Only knowledgeable individuals should perform any work with fixed anchors.  Bolts may be used as fixed anchors and may need to be installed or periodically replaced. Bolts that are installed or replaced as fixed anchors should be specifically designed for climbing use. Bolt holes should be placed by power drill or by hand drilling, although use of power drill is encouraged when possible to a) ensure an adequate and quality bolt hole is produced and b) to reduce noise pollution. Bolts, hangers, chain, and other equipment should be made from like-metals; 316 stainless steel is preferred. Bolts should meet industry standards. Camouflaging fixed anchors to match natural rock color is encouraged.